With its natural colors, here is introducing a sweater ideal for an outdoor picnic or a trekking expedition.
Yarn: Microshine knitting yarn
Needle No.: 9
Quantity: 450 g
Front :- Cast on 110 sts and knit 1X1 border of 2.5”. Then start with plain knit after every 6th row decrease 1-1 sts from both the sides till 8.5”.
Knit for 1” then in every 6th row decrease 1-1 sts from both the sides till 7”. Later, start shaping the armhole in 3-2-1 manner. Knit for 3.5” and shape the neckline round in 4”.
Knit the pattern as per the graph measuring 8.5” above the border and Keep 26-26 sts for shoulder.
Back:- Knit same as front but the shape of the neckline is to be round in 1” only.
Sleeves:- Cast on 46 sts and knit 1X1 rib border for 2.5”. Then start with plain knit and in every 6th row increase 1-1 sts from both the sides till its 16”.
After knitting 10” implement the design of the picture of the pullover then decrease 3-3-3 sts for armhole shape and cast off all the sts in 3”.
Knit the other sleeve likewise.
Neck :- Pick neck sts and knit 1X1 rib border for 1.5” and cast off.
– Woolen knitted garments should be washed separately from other clothes and should not be presoaked
– While washing, it is desirable to use the special washing liquids intended for woolen and knitted products (that don’t contain bleaches)
– When rinsing the knit for the first time, water should be the same temperature, as while washing
– It is necessary to rinse carefully as the rest of washing liquid remaining in the product can spoil colour of the product while drying
– While rinsing the last time, it is necessary to add liquid that deletes static electricity
– The washed knit cannot be hung up and should be wringed out at first and wrapped in a towel to remove moisture
– The knitted woolen product should not be dried in immediate proximity from a radiator or under solar beams
– The dried up knit can be steamed at a distance of 10-15 sm. Never leave an iron on a knit
– The formation of pellets is inevitable. You can remove it with a shaving machine tool without a sticky strip
– For this purpose, the product needs to be spread out on a rigid, smooth surface and shaved top-down
– The knitted garments should be stored together
– Use packages with special granules for smell and moisture absorption
– It is not recommended to hang up knitted products on hangers as they can get out of the shape
The seamless yoke style is the simplest sweater to knit in the round from the top down. These sweaters are unique in their lack of visible armhole shaping. Since the shoulders and armholes are not well defined, the yokes of these sweaters have a less tailored fit.
The next simplest style is the raglan. Sweaters with raglan shaping have distinctive “seams” between the front(s), back, and sleeves that form diagonal lines running from the neck edge to the base of the armholes. Beginning at the neck, the number of stitches on the front(s), back, and sleeves increase at regular intervals along these lines to give each section a triangular shape. Raglan sweaters fit nicely at the shoulders and lend themselves well to a close fit or waist shaping.
For the modified drop-shoulder style, the sleeves join the yoke in “notches” that extend from the shoulders to the base of the armholes. Other than stitches cast on at the base of the armholes, there is no armhole shaping. Modified drop-shoulder (also called indented sleeve or square armhole) sweaters are characterized by a boxy shape and casual style. The sleeves are attached to the body along straight armhole edges. The resulting square shape provides a broad canvas on which it’s easy to incorporate texture patterns.
Set-in sleeve styles have a classic tailored fit. The front(s) and back are worked separately to the desired armhole depth, with increases worked along the edges to tailor the shape of the armholes. Sweaters with set-in sleeves have tailored silhouettes and a timeless, classic quality. Because there is no excess fabric at the armholes, it gives a more refined look to even casual styles.
Knitting yarn labels pack a lot of information and you’ll need to know what it all means especially if you’re following a hand knitting pattern. Hand knitting patterns will tell you what kind of yarn to buy for that knitting project.
But there are other reasons as well. For instance, you may want to substitute the yarn that is called for in a pattern. You may also want a certain thickness. All this information is wrapped neatly around your little ball of knitting yarn.
Below is what yarn labels say and what to look for:
Yarn Name: The largest and the most prominent letters on the labels are the knitting yarn/company name.
Yarn Weight: The actual weight of the knitting yarn when packed is always listed.
Colour and Dye Lot Number: Always check to ensure the dye lot numbers are the same. Even though the colour may look exact it could be off just a tiny bit. If you can buy enough yarn for what you need in your project that would be great. It may be hard to match it up if you run out.
Laundry Care: The next set of boxes show you the laundry care symbols; how should you wash your garment, do you need to iron your garment, etc.
Knitting Needle Sizes: This section, the knitting needle symbol section, on knitting yarn labels is the part that knitters need to take a look at. On Vardhman Knitting yarn label below it’s the third box from the top. It gives you important knitting information for such things as needle size and thickness. You can see in the center is a pair of criss-cross needles with the number 9,10 (this is the needle number) at the top and 3.75-3.25 mm (this is the needle thickness) below. This is the suggested knitting needle size you should knit this particular knitting yarn with.
Any “X” on any laundry symbol means “do not”.
Now that you know so much about your knitting yarn, get started already!